The Wine Bank Zürich, a 1,000-square-meter wine vault and members' club, hosted its first public Champagne tasting last Friday, shifting focus to the underappreciated Pinot Meunier grape. The event, curated by Swiss Champagne expert Peter Jauch and led by sommelier Jelena van Eerdenurg, drew about two dozen enthusiasts to the venue’s subterranean space.
Van Eerdenurg, known in the industry as "Madame Meunier," guided participants through 13 Champagnes to illustrate the variety’s diversity. A trained jurist who transitioned to Champagne ten years ago, she holds credentials including a Wine & Spirit Education Trust diploma, membership in the Austrian Wine Academy, and certification as a Court of Master Sommeliers sommelier. She is currently pursuing the Master of Wine qualification.
The tasting began with single-varietal examples to establish a baseline: Lanson’s Blanc de Blancs 2015 (38% reserve wines from 15 crus), Herbert & Co.’s 1000% Pinot Noir 2022 (nine months in oak, 2,457 bottles), and A&J Demière’s Es’Sens 2019 (73 months on lees, no malolactic fermentation, no dosage). These were followed by Meunier-focused wines from the Vallée de la Marne, including Collard-Picard’s Racines (40-year-old vines) and Agrapart’s Ameunia 2023 (30% Demi-muid aging, no dosage).
Comparisons highlighted terroir differences within the Marne Valley. Tarlant’s La Vigne d’Or 2006 (seven months in used barrique, zero dosage) and Éric Taillet’s Le Bois de Binson 18.19 (1956 vines, nine months in Demi-muid) demonstrated how the same grape can yield distinct profiles even within the same subregion. The program also featured Meunier from outside the Marne, including Egly-Ouriet’s Vignes de Vrigny 2021 (60-year-old vines) and Champagne Ullens’ L.P.M. from Hermonville.
The evening addressed common criticisms of Pinot Meunier, including aging potential. A&J Demière’s Solera-style La Part des Anges (vintages 2018–2024) and the Oenothèque 2009 (60-year-old vines, stainless steel, disgorged July 2024) served as counterexamples, showcasing tertiary aromas in two-decade-old Meunier wines.
Martin Zuan, founder of the Wine Bank, emphasized the events’ role in engaging Champagne enthusiasts. Upcoming tastings include a Blanc de Blancs session on September 16, a Blanc de Noirs comparison of Pinot Noir and Meunier on October 14, and a Winzerchampagner vs. large houses event on November 11, each priced at 130 Swiss francs and open to the public.
